No power, no water, no phone

On Saturday the shower broke and since then I have been taking my baths in a bucket. Sort of. Only so many parts I can stick in at once. The first time I washed my hair using this method I was just hoping my head wouldn't get stuck. "Mzungu drowned in bucket." Actually, that would be a funny headline. The shower was supposed to be repaired today, but you know how it is with Plumbers. Add to that the African timetable and I'll be happy if it's done before Christmas. But "hakuna matata," no worries.

I meant to go for a run today, but it wasn't the lack of a real shower that kept me off the road. I simply fell asleep when I came home. Sometimes, like last night, I am still struggling with that rooster set on snooze alarm next door. If the owners don't turn it off soon, I may have to do it myself. It may make a nice Christmas present, too. A baking waking clock....

I have talked over my thesis topic with Vicky and after approval/correction by my prof will share it here. It'll be fun! I went to work this morning and regretted not having my camera. It was a clear morning and the recent rain fall came down as snow up in the mountains, so Kili has a bigger white blanket than when I came here. It looked outstanding.

Today I met another German who is doing some research into renewable energies for her thesis in political science and African studies. Very nice person and speaks Kiswaheli fluently!

I, on the other hand, am not making that much progress. For example, some corrections from my greetings entry a couple of days ago are on order so you won't get killed next time you visit a Swahili speaking country. The answer to mambo nis actually poa and while siku does mean day, 'Habari za siku' is only used when you haven't seen someone in a while, so it translates to more like "what the heck happened to you?" A simple "Good day" would be more like "Habari za leo," which doesn't ask what the news from the lion are – leo means today.

Speaking of today we did a bit of hands-on. The cookers for the biogas project still need to be made simpler and more efficient. There is a test system on KIDT and plenty of clay to play with....

When I came here I had bought the Spiegel, a weekly news magazine. It came with a very interesting documentary about the reunification on DVD. I finally watched it a couple of days ago. I remember being in Berlin for the first time in 1993 and talking to some people that were part of the demonstrations. I had never met anybody who was actively involved in anything like that, so it was fascinating to listen to their reports – how the police would go after them and the people's fears and hopes. Now I got to watch some of it in (literally) moving picture. Amazing what the will of the average Joe could accomplish 18 years ago.

The phone is not working and today we had a power outage that lasted all night, not just the custom 30 minutes. It produced a romantic candle light dinner. It is nice how you can always get something positive out of unusual situations!

Trip to Arusha

I am glad I am based in Moshi (which means Smoke) and not in Arusha. The latter is the town I visited today (Saturday). It's actually more scenic, as its higher altitude (1300m versus Moshi's 800m) makes it greener. But it's also bigger and due to being a hotbed of Safari's everybody want's your business. The encounters are always nice and people don't harass me too much, but it does get tiring to explain what I am doing in Moshi for the fifth time in 30 minutes...

Today I just wanted to walk around a bit by myself, also with the goal of looking for a bicycle, since Arusha is bigger than Moshi. But the prices quoted were even higher. The "just walking" turned out to be rather difficult. Even when I checked at one bike store, they walked me to several others. A gigantic chain... But bikes were either too small or too crappy or both. I stopped looking when they were showing me an obviously used bicycle, trying to tell me that it was new... When I said it wasn't they 'proved' it to me by leading me to the area where the mechanics were. They were in the process of assembling new bikes. My comment that they were completely different models didn't puzzle them....

Oh well, I eventually just got away from downtown and walked into the surrounding hills. That was much better. No hassles and a very scenic view to the rain forest. I also came by the Arusha Convention Centre, which currently hosts the Rwanda trials. That of course happened 13 years ago. I wonder how long we'll have to wait for Darfur justice to be made? Compared to those two disasters Iraq or Afghanistan seem rather smaller problems. I do admit I did go to an Anti-Taliban walk in 1997 (or maybe it was 1998) and haven't been on a Darfur one - actually never heard of one being organized.

There were some interesting job offers posted. 124,000 Swiss franks for a translator job (spanish-english-french). Some law attorney jobs in Sierra Leone, and while the salary range didn't seem too high (40,000-60,000, with one for a deputy registrar being somewhere inn 90K range), but a daily living allowance of $115 doesn't seem too bad, either... Of course all were posted last year - one even in 2004!

The trip to Arusha to look at the bio diesel generator was postponed to "maybe" Friday... It's the whole reason I didn't cancel my Saturday trip, as who knows when I really get to go to Arusha. Apparently it's also possible to sit in as a visitor for the Rwanda trials Mo-Thu.

I made another attempt at buying at bike Sunday. I am glad I went for a run in the morning to get my exercise in, though. They sell either new crap from $100 or used bikes from europe/us, around $170-200, but in bad condition (bottom brackets loose, spokes missing etc). I saw a nice bike (Shimanore Deore DX!), but pointed out all the shortcomings (chain slipping due to being worn, bottom bracket loose, missing spoke...). They said they can fix it. I said, ok, I'll be back when it's ready and test it. They of course wanted me to wait there, so we walked to the mechanics place. Of course, they couldn't fix it all, though it was fascinating to watch the mechanic work. They said it is working fine - even though I demonstrated it to them 4 times it wasn't. Once I almost crashed into a street vendor when I was trying to give a very vivid demonstration. By now they will hopefully gotten the message that they can't sell me stuff that isn't working... In the worst case I'll never get a bike. I can take the KIDT bus for free, so at least that part is taken care off...

50 ways to greet your Lover

The greeting process here is an art in itself. The main stay is the word Habari, meaning "News." Habari as a greeting is often not used by itself, but can be combined with the words for morning (asubuhi), day (siku) or evening (jioni). This is answered by nzuri (good). But then it continues and habari can be combined with another word like leo (today) or a variety of others, meaning 'how are you'. This is always answered by nzuri (good). Hands are often held throughout this. But there is also Hujambo (How are you), which is followed by Sijambo (Fine). And then there is the informal mambo (hi), which is answered by, I think, bora (the word for best), if I understood correctly.

The problem – well, one of the problems – is that people tend to shortcut Hujambo to Jambo. So then it sounds close enough to Mambo that I don't know how to answer it...Salama ("Good day") is also used (and answered by the same). With Dora's sister Salomi, the word Salama and the Italian sausage Salami I have to be careful I don't get confused!

Things change when I get greeted by kids, so it seems really a bit complicated... I have a decent dictionary that explained some of the things, but when you are just trying to figure what they said in the first place and then go through the possibilities of what you should answer, it can take a while for my little brain to process it.

And then sometimes people just say "Good Morning," in English. I then usually reply in English, too. Except when the taxi drivers are asking me if I need a ride (even if I just cross the street). I stay with "Hapana," the Kisuahelian word for no. But I think they finally figured out that I am no business for them and leave me alone.

I went for another run yesterday. I came home fairly early (4pm), but waited a bit until it had cooled off. Then I left and saw some dogs that looked tall like goats. Initially I thought I should turn around and go the other way (not being fond of dogs when I am running), but saw other people down there and decided to go anyway. The dogs turned out to be goats (which I guess explains their goat-size size), accompanied by some vultures wading through the trash. Then it started to rain and I saw a very pretty rain bow towards the mountains. For a second I hesitated, wondering if I should return to get the camera. But my egoistic side won and so you just have to trust me that it was beautiful. I did see one of the vultures the next day, though. At least I think it's a vulture - I didn't know their legs get that long.

Today we went to the biogas sites. Very interesting. I finally came into some of the typical, rural villages. People are very poor here. Also, it's already in the flatlands, so it gets less rain than in the mountains. There are irrigation canals for the big sugar cane fields, and residents can use the water for normal use, but not bigger-scale agriculture. Basically, whatever they can get out with buckets. The second problem apparently are moskitos (yes, yes, I know it's spelled mosquito in English, but for once there is a German word that is shorter than its Engl counterpart so I am going to take advantage of that, OK?). Most houses have some screens, but they aren't as tight as the moskito net over my bed.

Anyway, we visited two sites that are still under construction, although in the second manure was already filled in. The third site was ready to use, but the demonstration of the main cooker failed, and the COMPACT people had to take it with them for repair...One of those biogas projects gets propelled by 1-2 cows and can provide enough energy for the cooking needs of a 2-3 person household. I am not sure if it wouldn't make more sense to build a bigger system and connect multiple households. This would also help with the current problem that some farmers are apparently overwhelmed with the technicality of the system.

The first picture is from the site that is almost finished - they already started filling it with cow manure. Inside (hard to see) there is a long plastic tube, where the manure gets filled in. The gas (mostly methane and CO2) leaves through some pipes. The solid part can be used as manure (higher quality than what was put in). There is water with the methane gases, so that gets removed and the gas can then be used for a cooker (second picture - the smaller cooker was used b/c the bigger one didn't work).

On Monday and Tuesday I will be in Arusha with TaTEDO, to look at a biodiesel plant that is supposed to provide energy for 5,000 house holds. So I will be gone Monday and Tuesday and without internet over the weekend, it'll be a while before the next update. Now that I have a good connection here at the office, there is no need to spend 500 shilling (50 cents) for 30min in an internet cafe. The connection is so slow there that you can actually see the bits and bytes walking along the cables.

Michelin Man

White and fat like the Michelin Man, that's how I feel, for several reasons. For one I have been here for a week without doing any exercise. Sure, I have been doing lots of walking with a relatively heavy backpack in pretty warm temperature, but I still don't consider it real exercise. Secondly I have been eating lots of delicious food. Dora always overloads my plate. In the first week I didn't mind, as I thought that plenty of food should make for a healthy body. But now I am trying to cut down, especially because we eat on the later side for me (around 8pm).

And white because on my few exposed parts of the skin I put on sun screen - SPF 50, the kind that doesn't really disappear, no matter how hard you try to rub it in. And then the rest of the skin is covered with clothing, so doesn't get any sun light, so no photosynthesis, so this part gets really white, too...

To not become an advertiser for Michelin (bicycle) tires I decided today to go for a run. The view from the place I stay and during the run is rather nice. I didn't bring any running clothing, but my pants are the kind where you can unzip the lower part, so I had some shorts. I went for a 30-min run, stopping only once - there was a soccer game going on. I think skill-level wise I could have kept up, but the pitch was...well, let's call it poor. Almost like playing in the savannah, I guess. I would have been afraid to twist my ankle at every step.

I continued my run home, at some points cheered on by some kids. "Ah, Mzungu exercising!" It made smile and think about the book of Dieter Baumann (5,000m Olympic gold medal at 1992 Games) that I once read, where he said that people generally run to commute or get something done - not just to go for exercise (and on one of his trips Baumann was joined by a gas station owner to run to the next city; the African was 'complaining' that Baumann could have at least carried some water (to make the trip more purposeful...)


Work was funny today. I took a bus at 7am to be there at 8, b/c I was told we may go to see those biogas facilities. Well, at 9:30 I was just poking on what's going on with the trip. Ah, I was way too impatient again. The answer was that "we will have to wait and see." Ok, fine with me. The trip never happened and we may wait and see if it happens in two days or next week.

I am hearing some rain. First time in six months - I bet the local farmers are happy! Tonight I also took some pictures from the "Daily Dani Dinner Show." It's quite a treat and if you ever happen to be in the area, stop by and watch it (it's free!) For some reason Dani doesn't like to eat his dinner and he always puts up a fight - the end result can be seen on his shirt....

I finally ate with my hands today. After all how hard can it be to gobble up some 500 degree hot juicy beans when you get chapati (a pancake that is not written chapata, as I did the other day) as a spoon. Yeah, right. But I managed OK, though at the end of the chapati, there were still plenty of beans left... People also eat things like rice with their hands. Frankly, I think even chopsticks would make it easier for me. So I guess I should be hosting the "Daily Bjorn Dinner Show" soon.

Heading off to bed now and looking a bit puzzled at my left leg. Several moskito bites. How did they get there???

Cash is time!

I was told today that there is a bus from my work place, KIDT (which I erroneously called KIDP before - it stands for Kilimanjaro Industry Development Trust), but as usual the time table is not quite clear. What about the fare, though? It costs time, was the answer. So people working at the KIDT can get a ride for free, but unlike the frequent dala-dalas (the minivan buses) it only comes a few times a day. So if you miss it you are out of luck. "You have to pay time and attention to get to the bus stop early." I may try that one next time.

Today I was gonna get a ride, which I did - but it also meant I didn't get to the office until 11am...However, the setup is really good. I have a desk, "my" ethernet cable and a power outlet. Speaking of power outlet - the power was let out again yesterday... The second outage since I arrived. I had a feeling that it was going to happen - just like last time the wind picked up and minutes later it was really dark...

Apparently it gets windier towards Christmas, so I assume that is why people started putting candles on the tree. I had the chance to end my work day at 1pm today as Vicky was offering a ride back into town. But I decided to stay here and do some more reading on biogas facilities, which is likely to be my new subject, or at least part of the thesis with a revised focus on the hindrances to establish more sustainable practices.

Yesterday I left early because I got a ride at 3pm, so I hung out in Moshi for the afternoon and had a drink with Rasta John. I think pretty soon all the people who constantly are trying to sell me stuff or safaris will know me and realize I am staying for longer and I will not do a safari or buy their pictures and other things. The town is very small after all and Dora thinks she knows one of Rasta John's family members, if we are talking about the same shop.

Darkness on the edge of town

I experienced my first power outage last weekend. Fun, fun, fun. We sat around the dinner table (but were already done eating), when all of a sudden it got pitch black dark. The kids started to cry, of course. I wanted to get up to get my laptop for some light, but heard "Wait, wait" from somewhere (how did they see me???). With the help of a cell phone they had quickly found a lantern and a candle. The latter turned out to be for me as I was heading to bed. I got ready and once I was in bed, the lights came back on...

Speaking of cell phones, it has been very hard to try to convince Dora to not give me her second cell phone. I just don't even want to start with those thingies. She was also puzzled to see me without a watch. And there I thought I would perfectly blend in with the African lifestyle.... At any rate, I have a laptop that tells me constantly what time it is. I do admit it was fun to leave for work this morning and not having to care how long it took (Somewhere between 45-60 minutes).

I am now making progress on my thesis.

Blowing in the wind

How many people do you fit into a 14-seat minibus? The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind. But what I do know is that about two dozen seems the normal rate. Dora and I took the bus Sunday to get some nice waterfalls near Marangu (the entrance to the Kili National Park). When we hopped on the van was 'empty' - meaning there were no more people than seats...

Then people started to pile in and I moved further and further back until I was in the last row, second most spot to the right (with the door on the left - driving is on the left). So then the guy next to me (in the spot farthest from the door) wanted to get out. In a blink of an eye he had jumped out the window. Aha. I opted for the old folks version where several people had to get out so I could exit. This was particularly difficult with my not quite so small backpack. But patience is everything here and people tend to accept things.

I will say that I preferred the Guatemalan buses (those were old American school buses rather than minivans), but both systems are fascinating with the guy who collects the money hanging out the window or the door and trying to get more passengers as they drive along. The rates are written inside the bus (you don't pay right away - somewhat when the money collector feels like it, but certainly before you get off...), but the locals tend to haggle and get cheaper fares sometimes.

I am still interested in getting a bicycle instead.