Friday 30 November 2007

The non-entry

Well, this mornign there was no internet connection atwork, then we were on the road for several hours. So more details on Monday, hopefully (if internet has beenn fixed...)

Have a great weekend, everyone!

Thursday 29 November 2007

Illiterate Moskitos


Ok, well, it doesn't strictly say on my moskito net for them to not sit there. But all I read beforehand was wear white as mosquitoes don't tend to go there and use a net that is treated with a repellent. So for two days in a row I saw mosquitoes sitting on my white net with the recommended repellent. Huh? Don't those damn insects read up on that stuff? Which part of "White is not good for me?" did they not get?

My hopes for looking at a bike were dashed today as the head of the UNEP from Dar es Salaam (the capital) was here. Things kept getting postponed and it wasn't until 5pm when they were looking at the showroom that my colleagues and I had prepared by 9:30am... Just before the one bike store closed I managed to stop by and of course the bike wasn't ready yet. So now I doubt the guy wants to actually do the changes. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get it cheaper w/o the changes, as long as it rides well.

Not that I would have had the money anyway. Cashing the traveler' check has been interesting. On Saturday they told me they couldn't do it because it's Saturday (somehow it needed the main office and they were not working on Saturdays). On Monday I came back and not only did they need a passport, but also the receipt from when I bought them. Great - couldn't they have told me on Saturday??? Tu and We I just didn't get their early enough (they close at 3).

Ok, now this part of the blog comes live from the bank. I am now sitting here and I was told that it can take up to an hour to get confirmation from the main office. I guess they don't really like cashing Traveler's checks (saturday they tried sending me to the Bureau de Change, but their fees are much higher). Anyway, before she could even process my TC she said she had to finish her current task, which seemed to be crossing out dates on application forms. I said "No problem" and waited a couple of minutes. After that I was wondering if there is any way I could speed up the process and thought if I start reading something it would make her move. But of course I didn't have a book with me. The next best thing was the laptop. Hey, as soon as I had it booting she got up and took the traveler's checks and passport and proceeded....

So now I am sitting in an A/C-d bank, waiting for the things to come. I guess I don't want to have to go through this process very often, though. Maybe next time I'll try a different bank. This one is the closest to home and was mentioned in my travel guide as having a low fee. They didn't mention customer service....

This morning I went running and there were a few people stretching. Later most of them had left, but two guys continued and I later talked to them. They turned out to be police officers and stay in shape by exercising every morning.

--ok, wait, my "line" is moving. I am now asked to fill out a form. Seems like the laptop trick worked and seeing that she couldn't annoy me did the transaction fairly quickly... So will continue the blog entry later.--

We chatted a little bit and I asked them where I can find out about traffic laws. So they directed me to the main police office and its traffic officer. I did however ask them how the right-of-way works on non-signalised intersections. They said the main road has the right of way. This is similar what I believed is the case in California until I started reading up on the actual law... But it seems like nobody cares in the Golden State about not following the law properly, including the police that is supposed to be looking out for you. Of course pretty soon there won't be any problems anymore as the goal seems to be to

-- Darn, now she makes me stand in line. So I guess I will really have to call it quits for now...--

Ok, the total time spent was still about an hour in the bank. I can't complain about having to wait in line to get the cash as everyone else had to wait, too. But if the approval had taken an hour instead of two minutes it could have been potentially annoying...

Wednesday 28 November 2007

Born to Bike?

I talked to a guy today who rides his bike to work (only one km, but he rides to school sometimes, which is more like five km). Later talked to one of Dora's co-workers. Out of the two conversations I could get a very interesting picture:

People earn more in Moshi than other areas (Tanga was given as an example - Tanga is a port town in the northeast of the country). Mostly b/c people in Moshi have regular jobs but get extra income by farming on the side. So in Moshi people dream of having a car. People are rather lazy and avoid walking or biking. Biking in Moshi is considered (mostly) for poor people. There are tons of bicyclists in Tanga. One reason is that Tanga is flat, whereas Moshi is hilly. However, from my place to work is pretty much flat and there are at least half a dozen co-workers who seem to be living just as close as I and they don't ride. Of course another reason given is that drivers are bad and cycling is dangerous. It always puzzles me that the same people who say the drivers are dangerous have no problems squeezing into a bus, handing themselves to the mercy of the (reportedly bad) driver and other drivers, w/o any ability to react...With a bike in most cases you can avoid the dangers as you are much more agile than a ton of steel.

In Tanga many women ride bikes, sometimes travelling 10-15km with 80 liters (20 gallons) of water on the back of the bicycle. Women in Moshi don't ride their bikes. They are looked at funny if they do. The one guy I talked to said he commuted 30km round trip to work where he used to live (need to double check where that was). He said he got lazy when he moved to Moshi. He also said that other sports are not popular in Moshi (running, soccer) as people generally are lazy.

I thought that was highly interesting. So the higher the income the lazier people tend to get b/c they can then afford all the stuff that prevents them from getting a natural workout! Sounds very similar to Europe/US. I will look at two more bikes tomorrow. After what I heard today I think it is actually really important to get a bike. If a white guy rides to work everyday, maybe it makes an impression? I will have some money available as I am now thinking of not climbing Kili. It just is so expensive. I got one quote for $1,000. I think there maybe a chance to get it cheaper with a reputable company, but still probably around 800-900. Plus I'd have to rent a jacket and possibly a sleeping bag... I think getting the bike is more important in the grand scheme of things.

Yesterday and today we had a grand total of three power outages at KIDT. While people around me are not bothered (it doesn't prevent them fro reading the paper :) I can also continue to work on the battery. Today a consultant was here, trying to find the problem with the biogas system. He did pretty much the same test I had suggested last week, but the technician didn't want to do. This proved that the gas was produced fine and there was a leak somewhere. I wanted to systematically go down the pipe and check at every joint to see if the gas is still coming out (testing it by attaching a cooker). Well, the technician didn't want do it, but the consultant has now found the leak and fixed it (note added this morning: No, not fixed yet...)

I also suggested a change in the gas storage tank, which the consultant liked (it will add slightly more cost, but with the current design there is a cement part that can easily break off during servicing, thereby increasing the cost down the road). He has his own company and a few systems spread out in the country (a couple near Lake Victoria) and I hope I can visit some of those sometime soon ( he is using a different system than the one COMPACT has and it'd be interesting to check the differerencs).

Today there was a whole section (not sure what you call this in English?) of bananas in the driveway. I helped the maid carry it in. Damn, that thing was HEAVY. A hundred bananas? I don't know, and I don't know how the banana trees can deal with that weight...But anyway, the good fruit is now in the storage room!



I came across a nice feature of Word yesterday. It is called the eternal correction feature. Or maybe the eternal incorrection feature. Or maybe just THE feature. Anyway, take the following sentence (oh, here is a sneak preview to my thesis...):

For this to be possible soil erosion has to be kept at a minimum.

So soil is underlined in green and when clicked Word suggests:

For this to be possible soil, erosion has to be kept at a minimum.

Let alone that this sentence reads rather funny, the word soil is now underlined and when you click on it Word suggests:

For this to be possible soil erosion has to be kept at a minimum.

Do you want me to continue? This would be one heck of a blog entry :)
Maybe a comma before soil would have confused it a little less?

Tuesday 27 November 2007

Show (little) and tell (much)

Did I mention the showroom? Vicky wants some drawings for a variety of cookers. She never told me that it had to be done anytime soon (I think she first brought it up Friday). Only to tell me today (Monday) that it had to be done Wednesday. Of course I haven't broken the news to her yet that my art teachers rather committed suicide than having to deal with my 'art'. Most of the times they were just resigned to giving me a C just so they wouldn't have to grade my stuff. Anyway, apparently a group of visitors is coming Wednesday and Vicky needs to have something to show in the showroom, even if it's just drawings. But I guess it'll be more like a show and tell – with little show and lots to tell.

Speaking of art. The job market here is rather small. Either you are in some way connected to Safaris or a Kili climb or you are "teksi" driver or you are an artist. A couple of times I talked to a guy who saw me running and said he used to run marathons and is now trying to get back into shape (but in the mean time I should check out his art store, of course). He asked me to run with him, but of course if his claims are correct (i.e. he was part of the Tanza national team and his PB is a 2h18) he'd be getting bored with my slow running after half a mile.

Sunday evening I heard a chicken in the kitchen, stuck in a plastic bag and trying to get away. An hour later it was dead, lying in the food storage room (but still complete). The next morning I noticed some cooked chicken in the fridge. Well, food is certainly fresh here. Hopes that it may have been in a rooster instead (and with that I mean the alarm clock next door) were dashed.

As for my thesis, I have formatted the questionnaires nicely (but lazy as I am I used a template from another student which saved some work figuring out the tables in Word. He did a nice job!) I am not a big friend of Word. But what really makes me cringe is Works. Because the full program name comes out to "Microsoft Works." Whatever.

Today I finally got behind the secrets of the phone card system here. You can buy a phone card of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000 or 10,000 shilling (there may be others available). But don't try to use them at the phone booth. You first have to buy a different, permanent card that has a card number and a PIN. Then you dial 800400 and follow the instructions. If you are lucky, some prompts are repeated in English, but not all. Anyway, when I entered the card number and PIN it always went back to the same prompt, asking for the card# again...

So two nice ladies from the phone company (TTCL) helped me. They got passed that point to enter the PIN (successfully) and then dialled 11# (this was not anywhere in the instructions btw.) With that you can add the credit from the card you just bought (in my case a 2,000 card) by entering its 12-digit#. Have I lost you yet? Sorry, I wish there'd be an easier way to explain it. Basically you fill the permanent card with the cards you buy and then can use the permanent card at the phone booth. Also, you can buy a card and use it at home, but the entire credit (like the whole 2,000) are transferred to the phone. So you can't just use the card one time at the home phone and later at the phone booth. I realized that the system is really complicated after even a few TTCL employees couldn't quite get it right...

Which is why everyone has a cell phone. But I still haven't found it to be necessary. And the one time I needed to call someone (remember, our land line is broken...) Dora gave me her cell phone, but there was practically no reception, so it was useless anyway.

I am glad for the internet connection at KIDT, though. I have been writing in the evening (like right now) and then posted it in the office. SO far have been going there Mo-Fr, but it may change a bit in December, as more field trips may be coming up. At least I hope so – a few promised visits have been postponed several times, which is a bit frustrating. But all you can say is "Hakuna matata". No worries, mate.

Monday 26 November 2007

Daktari

I have vague memories that there was a TV show called Daktari ("Doctor") in the 70's. Friday I had my first visit with one, but don't worry – nothing wrong with me. For the second time I ran into the guy with the cast on his hand, who of course (again) wanted money for the doctor. He said he needed X-rays taken that cost 10,000 shilling, but he had only 3,000. If I could give him 3,000?

Ah, OK, so to speak. I had no idea how that was gonna help pay for the X-rays, which would still have been 4,000 out of his reach. So I said "Let's go to the hospital." I wanted to see first hand (no pun intended). He got questioned by a nurse for a couple of minutes, then came the daktari. He seemed to know the guy and immediately said "Three more weeks." All of the conversation with the nurse and part of the conversation with the daktari was in Swahili, so I have no idea what they were talking about. "Three more weeks" is all the daktari kept saying to me. End of visit.

I also came by a different shop that sold bicycles. I saw one that could be decent after a few changes. He wanted 100,000 and said changes would be made by tomorrow, same time. Much better and cheaper than going through middle man Rasta John.

Saturday I went for a run. So far I had only been going out for 20-45 minutes, so I could be home before the Malaria flies would wake up (they are night active only). But Saturday morning I had of course more time, so I ended up going out a different way and ran for about 1h15. It was a nice area. Quiet and peaceful and good to know that I can come back here and relax.

There was also a Golf course. I don't know much about Golf – not even the difference between a Birdie and a Tweedy. But I know enough to say that the green looked a little rough. Not as rough as the adjacent "roughby" field, though. That was a real meadow and made sure that the tough rugby players stayed just that – tough.

I later went to town and made a call to my parents (the home phone here is still broken and my guess of shower or phone being fixed by Christmas may have been overly optimistic) and checked on the bicycle. Nothing had been fixed of course...

I started laying out my thesis and wrote a few pages already. The prof will likely get back to me by tomorrow (Monday) with his suggestions for the summary. Things are shaping up.

The picture is from the tropical rain storm on Friday...

Friday 23 November 2007

Ah-OK

Yesterday I went running on the track (hopefully I can provide some pix at some point of this Olympic style venue). After a few laps a guy gave his thumbs up and asked if he could join. Sure. I asked if he ran competitively. "Ah, OK," was the answer. I tried to inquire if he ran maybe 5,000 metres. "Ah, OK. Tomorrow?" No, I meant if you ran competitions in the past? "Ah, OK." Have you done races before. "Huh?" Did you ever run on the track. "Ah, OK." Ok, maybe this: Did you ever run 5,000 or 10,000 metres? "Ah, OK. Tomorrow?"

Language barriers can be something wonderful. He spoke a lot more English than I do Swahili, but we definitely had some funny parts in the conversation. When I left he started speaking Swahili to me and all I could figure out that he wanted me to come back to run tomorrow and then go to his place (he is a student at the local college and lives on campus). But then he seemed to change his mind and wanted to invite me right away. So I explained to him that I am going home now (it was getting dark). He said "Ah, OK" and then seemed confused as I left, expecting me to go with him.

As for the thesis, my prof is busy and I won't get the summary back until after the weekend. I also drew up questionnaires to ask people who used the biogas system so far, as well as one for potential solar cooker users and one dealing with soil erosion prevention measures (and why people don't use them).

Next week I also hope that our test system is working again (not much gas coming out right now and it's possible that because manure was not added frequently enough it has hardened and prevents gas to rise to the top. So the current contents has to be squeezed out and new manure to be added. I hope this can be done by Monday or so. Then it'll still take a few days before enough gas is produced.

I want to then test the different types of cookers they have for efficiency. Vicky from COMPACT wants to have a little display area with multiple different models so I want to see which ones we should pursue.

Today it was raining hard several times since lunch break. Figures, instead of wearing my boots I opted for my sports shoes today. Should be a muddy walk home...

Have a nice weekend everyone

Thursday 22 November 2007

Liquid weapons

Just when I thought there was not really much to report for the day (only last two paragraphs), I made an interesting discovery today. Just before I left my dad asked me if I didn't want to bring a 15-inch bush knife - oh, wait, no. He asked me if I didn't want to bring a pocket knife. I said I would have liked to, but couldn't find mine (story of my life). He gave me a small one he had, but told me to put it in the luggage to be checked, otherwise they'll take it. Of course! Like I wouldn't know that. They will also take your nail clippers, your water and your coke – essentially all the times that the average Joe would use to bring down an airplane.

That they take the water really infuriates me. I have noticed on long flights that I have less problems with jet lag and on a trans-Atlantic flight I used to drink about 1/2 gallon of Gatorade and probably about the same amount in water. With all the extra food I was bringing and sometimes a laptop it wasn't unusual that my carry-on was heavier than my checked luggage!

So anyway, they do that stupid thing of taking away all your 'liquids' above 100 millilitre. Fortunately none of my bottles were bigger than that but I was supposed to put it in a clear plastic bag, conveniently sold for one whole euro where the line forms. What a rip-off. After all, I didn't make their stupid regulation. Anyway, the guy who had to special examine my bag was stressed, which is why I didn't want to start a discussion about why I don't consider sun screen a liquid. I had waited in line already long enough – of course because of all the morons like me who refuse to follow the silly regulation and put the so-called liquids into a plastic bag.

Anyway, back to the point. Now, three weeks later, I am looking for my pen that I have seemed to misplace (story of my life). So I am looking through my backpack that I also happened to have in the plane. Found my red Swiss Army knife. It had been there all along, including in the airplane from Frankfurt to Kilimanjaro. So what are those dudes at the airport paid for? That I get dehydrated during a flight and a sunburn in Africa???

I have now two more months to think about how to test the safety checks for the return flight... This, btw, isn't the first time I made the interesting discovery that the so-called security measures, especially since 9-11, are just a way of making money (think about all those nail clippers etc that people had to replace since then. Along with all the drinks that passengers have now to buy at the over-prized airports). In 2003 I flew with an expired ID, a bread knife on board and all that with a one-way ticket from Atlanta to LA. Another incident where people made money off of an unsuspecting passenger. Because I noticed that my Swiss Army knife was still in my carry on when I had checked my luggage, so I sent it via Mail from the Atlanta airport. Yes, the same knife that now traveled on a Condor flight from Europe to Africa. I should have tested it back then already and saved the couple of bucks for shipping.

Jack guessed the Mikefruit – no, wait. Mike guessed the Jackfruit and deserves a soy ice cream. Jack, was the fruit named after you??? The Swahili name is fenesi.

I am starting to get a feel of what some the difficulties are with the biogas project. It's basically coming down to the fact that materials are rare and expensive. For example, to increase the performance of the systems it would be good to have the plastic tube that gets filled with the manure, to be at least 1.2 metres wide. However, they currently use sheets that are only 90 centimetres wide. They come from far (Dar es Salaam) and are apparently the only thing available. To get a bigger gas storage tank approved (which is basically a plastic container like a trash can) they would have to rewrite the grant proposal and it would take forever...

Well, short entry today. I was looking into ways of maybe making the cooker simpler and also see if it's the most efficient in its current form. There also may be a leak somewhere in the test system. Any volunteer who wants to run around with a match and find it?

Wednesday 21 November 2007

As good as it gets!

So far I have bored you with a candlelight dinner during a power outage and taking a full bath in a bucket. But today I had the ultimate! I came home from my run (having unsuccessfully tried to use a couple of phone booths on the way to make a call to the US) at dusk. And of course we had a power outage. And the shower wasn't repaired yet. So I got to enjoy a candlelight shower in a bucket. How much better can it get? It was almost a disappointment when halfway through the shower the lights came back on.

Today at work we looked at most of the remaining biogas systems that COMPACT has currently built. They seem to work, but aren't not too powerful. Maybe boil some water for tea or 1.5 pieces of meat (one woman said that the second piece of meat she put on after the first one was well done did not get cooked more than halfway through). So there will be some work to do in order to make the systems better.

It's always interesting to see the different farms and how people live. It is quite an experience to stand in the kitchen, testing out the equipment, while looking at the cows peacefully chewing their grass in the adjacent room, separated by a wall with one hole (no window or anything!). The cows probably think the same thing and may wonder why the heck humans are so silly that they need cookers in the first place.

Remember the reunification DVD I was talking about? News travel slower in some parts of the world and today someone asked me "There is East and West Germany, right?" On the other hand he did seem to know the chancellor is female. I can't say that I knew much about Tanzania, either, before I decided to do the thesis here.

Ok, and last but not least a little quiz. The first person to guess the name of the fruit in the picture will get an ice-cream when they get down here! And just for good measure I may exclude people who are seriously planning a trip down here... Anything to prevent a real winner from having to endure the dangers of half-frozen ice cream that is sold by guys on bicycles in the streets. What is ice cream in Swahili? I don't know - the ice cream bicycles say "ice cream" on them!

Tuesday 20 November 2007

Speed limit for pedestrians

The other day I was in a hurry to get home. I was walking fast, so I could go for a run. That is a concept that is rather silly – sorry, I have to come back to that Bauman story again... But when I walk fast, people ask me what is the hurry? "Pole pole" they may add, which doesn't warn me that I am about to run (or walk) into a pole, but simply means "Slow." A lot of the lifestyle is based on pole pole and people often don't understand when you are in a hurry.

Even the people that run home from work do so at a leisurely pace, except some try to race me when I come by for a workout. It's kinda funny, and I am always astonished how well they run, considering their lack of good shoes and running in long, uncomfortable work clothes. And recently I tripped over a speed bump on the side walk. It was clear sign to me. Pole pole.

No power, no water, no phone

On Saturday the shower broke and since then I have been taking my baths in a bucket. Sort of. Only so many parts I can stick in at once. The first time I washed my hair using this method I was just hoping my head wouldn't get stuck. "Mzungu drowned in bucket." Actually, that would be a funny headline. The shower was supposed to be repaired today, but you know how it is with Plumbers. Add to that the African timetable and I'll be happy if it's done before Christmas. But "hakuna matata," no worries.

I meant to go for a run today, but it wasn't the lack of a real shower that kept me off the road. I simply fell asleep when I came home. Sometimes, like last night, I am still struggling with that rooster set on snooze alarm next door. If the owners don't turn it off soon, I may have to do it myself. It may make a nice Christmas present, too. A baking waking clock....

I have talked over my thesis topic with Vicky and after approval/correction by my prof will share it here. It'll be fun! I went to work this morning and regretted not having my camera. It was a clear morning and the recent rain fall came down as snow up in the mountains, so Kili has a bigger white blanket than when I came here. It looked outstanding.

Today I met another German who is doing some research into renewable energies for her thesis in political science and African studies. Very nice person and speaks Kiswaheli fluently!

I, on the other hand, am not making that much progress. For example, some corrections from my greetings entry a couple of days ago are on order so you won't get killed next time you visit a Swahili speaking country. The answer to mambo nis actually poa and while siku does mean day, 'Habari za siku' is only used when you haven't seen someone in a while, so it translates to more like "what the heck happened to you?" A simple "Good day" would be more like "Habari za leo," which doesn't ask what the news from the lion are – leo means today.

Speaking of today we did a bit of hands-on. The cookers for the biogas project still need to be made simpler and more efficient. There is a test system on KIDT and plenty of clay to play with....

When I came here I had bought the Spiegel, a weekly news magazine. It came with a very interesting documentary about the reunification on DVD. I finally watched it a couple of days ago. I remember being in Berlin for the first time in 1993 and talking to some people that were part of the demonstrations. I had never met anybody who was actively involved in anything like that, so it was fascinating to listen to their reports – how the police would go after them and the people's fears and hopes. Now I got to watch some of it in (literally) moving picture. Amazing what the will of the average Joe could accomplish 18 years ago.

The phone is not working and today we had a power outage that lasted all night, not just the custom 30 minutes. It produced a romantic candle light dinner. It is nice how you can always get something positive out of unusual situations!

Monday 19 November 2007

Trip to Arusha

I am glad I am based in Moshi (which means Smoke) and not in Arusha. The latter is the town I visited today (Saturday). It's actually more scenic, as its higher altitude (1300m versus Moshi's 800m) makes it greener. But it's also bigger and due to being a hotbed of Safari's everybody want's your business. The encounters are always nice and people don't harass me too much, but it does get tiring to explain what I am doing in Moshi for the fifth time in 30 minutes...

Today I just wanted to walk around a bit by myself, also with the goal of looking for a bicycle, since Arusha is bigger than Moshi. But the prices quoted were even higher. The "just walking" turned out to be rather difficult. Even when I checked at one bike store, they walked me to several others. A gigantic chain... But bikes were either too small or too crappy or both. I stopped looking when they were showing me an obviously used bicycle, trying to tell me that it was new... When I said it wasn't they 'proved' it to me by leading me to the area where the mechanics were. They were in the process of assembling new bikes. My comment that they were completely different models didn't puzzle them....

Oh well, I eventually just got away from downtown and walked into the surrounding hills. That was much better. No hassles and a very scenic view to the rain forest. I also came by the Arusha Convention Centre, which currently hosts the Rwanda trials. That of course happened 13 years ago. I wonder how long we'll have to wait for Darfur justice to be made? Compared to those two disasters Iraq or Afghanistan seem rather smaller problems. I do admit I did go to an Anti-Taliban walk in 1997 (or maybe it was 1998) and haven't been on a Darfur one - actually never heard of one being organized.

There were some interesting job offers posted. 124,000 Swiss franks for a translator job (spanish-english-french). Some law attorney jobs in Sierra Leone, and while the salary range didn't seem too high (40,000-60,000, with one for a deputy registrar being somewhere inn 90K range), but a daily living allowance of $115 doesn't seem too bad, either... Of course all were posted last year - one even in 2004!

The trip to Arusha to look at the bio diesel generator was postponed to "maybe" Friday... It's the whole reason I didn't cancel my Saturday trip, as who knows when I really get to go to Arusha. Apparently it's also possible to sit in as a visitor for the Rwanda trials Mo-Thu.

I made another attempt at buying at bike Sunday. I am glad I went for a run in the morning to get my exercise in, though. They sell either new crap from $100 or used bikes from europe/us, around $170-200, but in bad condition (bottom brackets loose, spokes missing etc). I saw a nice bike (Shimanore Deore DX!), but pointed out all the shortcomings (chain slipping due to being worn, bottom bracket loose, missing spoke...). They said they can fix it. I said, ok, I'll be back when it's ready and test it. They of course wanted me to wait there, so we walked to the mechanics place. Of course, they couldn't fix it all, though it was fascinating to watch the mechanic work. They said it is working fine - even though I demonstrated it to them 4 times it wasn't. Once I almost crashed into a street vendor when I was trying to give a very vivid demonstration. By now they will hopefully gotten the message that they can't sell me stuff that isn't working... In the worst case I'll never get a bike. I can take the KIDT bus for free, so at least that part is taken care off...

Friday 16 November 2007

50 ways to greet your Lover

The greeting process here is an art in itself. The main stay is the word Habari, meaning "News." Habari as a greeting is often not used by itself, but can be combined with the words for morning (asubuhi), day (siku) or evening (jioni). This is answered by nzuri (good). But then it continues and habari can be combined with another word like leo (today) or a variety of others, meaning 'how are you'. This is always answered by nzuri (good). Hands are often held throughout this. But there is also Hujambo (How are you), which is followed by Sijambo (Fine). And then there is the informal mambo (hi), which is answered by, I think, bora (the word for best), if I understood correctly.

The problem – well, one of the problems – is that people tend to shortcut Hujambo to Jambo. So then it sounds close enough to Mambo that I don't know how to answer it...Salama ("Good day") is also used (and answered by the same). With Dora's sister Salomi, the word Salama and the Italian sausage Salami I have to be careful I don't get confused!

Things change when I get greeted by kids, so it seems really a bit complicated... I have a decent dictionary that explained some of the things, but when you are just trying to figure what they said in the first place and then go through the possibilities of what you should answer, it can take a while for my little brain to process it.

And then sometimes people just say "Good Morning," in English. I then usually reply in English, too. Except when the taxi drivers are asking me if I need a ride (even if I just cross the street). I stay with "Hapana," the Kisuahelian word for no. But I think they finally figured out that I am no business for them and leave me alone.

I went for another run yesterday. I came home fairly early (4pm), but waited a bit until it had cooled off. Then I left and saw some dogs that looked tall like goats. Initially I thought I should turn around and go the other way (not being fond of dogs when I am running), but saw other people down there and decided to go anyway. The dogs turned out to be goats (which I guess explains their goat-size size), accompanied by some vultures wading through the trash. Then it started to rain and I saw a very pretty rain bow towards the mountains. For a second I hesitated, wondering if I should return to get the camera. But my egoistic side won and so you just have to trust me that it was beautiful. I did see one of the vultures the next day, though. At least I think it's a vulture - I didn't know their legs get that long.

Today we went to the biogas sites. Very interesting. I finally came into some of the typical, rural villages. People are very poor here. Also, it's already in the flatlands, so it gets less rain than in the mountains. There are irrigation canals for the big sugar cane fields, and residents can use the water for normal use, but not bigger-scale agriculture. Basically, whatever they can get out with buckets. The second problem apparently are moskitos (yes, yes, I know it's spelled mosquito in English, but for once there is a German word that is shorter than its Engl counterpart so I am going to take advantage of that, OK?). Most houses have some screens, but they aren't as tight as the moskito net over my bed.

Anyway, we visited two sites that are still under construction, although in the second manure was already filled in. The third site was ready to use, but the demonstration of the main cooker failed, and the COMPACT people had to take it with them for repair...One of those biogas projects gets propelled by 1-2 cows and can provide enough energy for the cooking needs of a 2-3 person household. I am not sure if it wouldn't make more sense to build a bigger system and connect multiple households. This would also help with the current problem that some farmers are apparently overwhelmed with the technicality of the system.

The first picture is from the site that is almost finished - they already started filling it with cow manure. Inside (hard to see) there is a long plastic tube, where the manure gets filled in. The gas (mostly methane and CO2) leaves through some pipes. The solid part can be used as manure (higher quality than what was put in). There is water with the methane gases, so that gets removed and the gas can then be used for a cooker (second picture - the smaller cooker was used b/c the bigger one didn't work).

On Monday and Tuesday I will be in Arusha with TaTEDO, to look at a biodiesel plant that is supposed to provide energy for 5,000 house holds. So I will be gone Monday and Tuesday and without internet over the weekend, it'll be a while before the next update. Now that I have a good connection here at the office, there is no need to spend 500 shilling (50 cents) for 30min in an internet cafe. The connection is so slow there that you can actually see the bits and bytes walking along the cables.

Thursday 15 November 2007

Michelin Man

White and fat like the Michelin Man, that's how I feel, for several reasons. For one I have been here for a week without doing any exercise. Sure, I have been doing lots of walking with a relatively heavy backpack in pretty warm temperature, but I still don't consider it real exercise. Secondly I have been eating lots of delicious food. Dora always overloads my plate. In the first week I didn't mind, as I thought that plenty of food should make for a healthy body. But now I am trying to cut down, especially because we eat on the later side for me (around 8pm).

And white because on my few exposed parts of the skin I put on sun screen - SPF 50, the kind that doesn't really disappear, no matter how hard you try to rub it in. And then the rest of the skin is covered with clothing, so doesn't get any sun light, so no photosynthesis, so this part gets really white, too...

To not become an advertiser for Michelin (bicycle) tires I decided today to go for a run. The view from the place I stay and during the run is rather nice. I didn't bring any running clothing, but my pants are the kind where you can unzip the lower part, so I had some shorts. I went for a 30-min run, stopping only once - there was a soccer game going on. I think skill-level wise I could have kept up, but the pitch was...well, let's call it poor. Almost like playing in the savannah, I guess. I would have been afraid to twist my ankle at every step.

I continued my run home, at some points cheered on by some kids. "Ah, Mzungu exercising!" It made smile and think about the book of Dieter Baumann (5,000m Olympic gold medal at 1992 Games) that I once read, where he said that people generally run to commute or get something done - not just to go for exercise (and on one of his trips Baumann was joined by a gas station owner to run to the next city; the African was 'complaining' that Baumann could have at least carried some water (to make the trip more purposeful...)


Work was funny today. I took a bus at 7am to be there at 8, b/c I was told we may go to see those biogas facilities. Well, at 9:30 I was just poking on what's going on with the trip. Ah, I was way too impatient again. The answer was that "we will have to wait and see." Ok, fine with me. The trip never happened and we may wait and see if it happens in two days or next week.

I am hearing some rain. First time in six months - I bet the local farmers are happy! Tonight I also took some pictures from the "Daily Dani Dinner Show." It's quite a treat and if you ever happen to be in the area, stop by and watch it (it's free!) For some reason Dani doesn't like to eat his dinner and he always puts up a fight - the end result can be seen on his shirt....

I finally ate with my hands today. After all how hard can it be to gobble up some 500 degree hot juicy beans when you get chapati (a pancake that is not written chapata, as I did the other day) as a spoon. Yeah, right. But I managed OK, though at the end of the chapati, there were still plenty of beans left... People also eat things like rice with their hands. Frankly, I think even chopsticks would make it easier for me. So I guess I should be hosting the "Daily Bjorn Dinner Show" soon.

Heading off to bed now and looking a bit puzzled at my left leg. Several moskito bites. How did they get there???

Tuesday 13 November 2007

Cash is time!

I was told today that there is a bus from my work place, KIDT (which I erroneously called KIDP before - it stands for Kilimanjaro Industry Development Trust), but as usual the time table is not quite clear. What about the fare, though? It costs time, was the answer. So people working at the KIDT can get a ride for free, but unlike the frequent dala-dalas (the minivan buses) it only comes a few times a day. So if you miss it you are out of luck. "You have to pay time and attention to get to the bus stop early." I may try that one next time.

Today I was gonna get a ride, which I did - but it also meant I didn't get to the office until 11am...However, the setup is really good. I have a desk, "my" ethernet cable and a power outlet. Speaking of power outlet - the power was let out again yesterday... The second outage since I arrived. I had a feeling that it was going to happen - just like last time the wind picked up and minutes later it was really dark...

Apparently it gets windier towards Christmas, so I assume that is why people started putting candles on the tree. I had the chance to end my work day at 1pm today as Vicky was offering a ride back into town. But I decided to stay here and do some more reading on biogas facilities, which is likely to be my new subject, or at least part of the thesis with a revised focus on the hindrances to establish more sustainable practices.

Yesterday I left early because I got a ride at 3pm, so I hung out in Moshi for the afternoon and had a drink with Rasta John. I think pretty soon all the people who constantly are trying to sell me stuff or safaris will know me and realize I am staying for longer and I will not do a safari or buy their pictures and other things. The town is very small after all and Dora thinks she knows one of Rasta John's family members, if we are talking about the same shop.

Monday 12 November 2007

Darkness on the edge of town

I experienced my first power outage last weekend. Fun, fun, fun. We sat around the dinner table (but were already done eating), when all of a sudden it got pitch black dark. The kids started to cry, of course. I wanted to get up to get my laptop for some light, but heard "Wait, wait" from somewhere (how did they see me???). With the help of a cell phone they had quickly found a lantern and a candle. The latter turned out to be for me as I was heading to bed. I got ready and once I was in bed, the lights came back on...

Speaking of cell phones, it has been very hard to try to convince Dora to not give me her second cell phone. I just don't even want to start with those thingies. She was also puzzled to see me without a watch. And there I thought I would perfectly blend in with the African lifestyle.... At any rate, I have a laptop that tells me constantly what time it is. I do admit it was fun to leave for work this morning and not having to care how long it took (Somewhere between 45-60 minutes).

I am now making progress on my thesis.

Blowing in the wind

How many people do you fit into a 14-seat minibus? The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind. But what I do know is that about two dozen seems the normal rate. Dora and I took the bus Sunday to get some nice waterfalls near Marangu (the entrance to the Kili National Park). When we hopped on the van was 'empty' - meaning there were no more people than seats...

Then people started to pile in and I moved further and further back until I was in the last row, second most spot to the right (with the door on the left - driving is on the left). So then the guy next to me (in the spot farthest from the door) wanted to get out. In a blink of an eye he had jumped out the window. Aha. I opted for the old folks version where several people had to get out so I could exit. This was particularly difficult with my not quite so small backpack. But patience is everything here and people tend to accept things.

I will say that I preferred the Guatemalan buses (those were old American school buses rather than minivans), but both systems are fascinating with the guy who collects the money hanging out the window or the door and trying to get more passengers as they drive along. The rates are written inside the bus (you don't pay right away - somewhat when the money collector feels like it, but certainly before you get off...), but the locals tend to haggle and get cheaper fares sometimes.

I am still interested in getting a bicycle instead.

Rasta John

"How are you? Good seeing you again!" This was a standard phrase from people who I hadn't seen before. If not the first it was at least the second guy who approached me on the street with those words, trying to sell me a safari trip (again?). But this time it was different. I recognized the guy and we started chatting. He pointed out his craft store (again) and this time I agreed to venture in, but telling him right away I wouldn't buy anything.

At the beginning of a three-month trip there is still plenty of time to figure where to get things. So we walk over there and they are actually nice things there. But I only got some post cards. He introduced himself as John. I then asked about buying a used bicycle (I looked at new ones - they are around 100 bucks, but too small).

He agreed to walk me around. When we left his store a guy from the store on the opposite site came running out a mzungu always smells like business, I suppose. But it was interesting - it turned out to be the store that organizes the Kili-Man (open to women, too, btw). It's somewhat like the IronMan (open to women, too, btw). Climbing Kili, riding around it with a bicycle and then doing a marathon, although of course this is not a one-day event (http://kilimanjaro-man.com/). I am so close, yet so far away from it. It will happen again in February 2008, just after my return to Europe. Turns out one of the persons involved with it is a German. She will be back Tuesday and I may stop by.

So John and I walked around and checked out several places. Eventually we found one nice one, but it was twice the price of a new one (200 dollars) even though definitely better quality than the store ones. I will talk to the Kili-GerMan (who is a woman, btw) and see if she knows of any good cheap bikes. But eventually I will buy one. I walked to the office today (something like 45min to an hour) - not something I want to do everyday, even though it was interesting to (somewhat) blend in with the other folks on their way to school, work or just walking errands.

Anyway, eventually John and I parted ways. I told him I'll think about the bicycle some more and asked for his phone number. He tore out a page of his calendar, then borrowed a pen from someone (pens seem to be always rare here) and wrote: Rasta John - Tel: ....

We shook hands, then hit our fists against each others - very popular especially among the younger crowd. He then clutched his chest. Made me feel very special.

Saturday 10 November 2007

You know it's hot when...

the Africans gather in the shade and the (dark skinned) Kenyan asks the (lighter skinned) Tanzanian how she can stand it without a hat...
But let's start at the beginning. All I knew about Friday was that the COMPACT people were going to pick me up in the morning and that there may be a field trip. But my assumption was we would go to the office first, where I could check my email. Well, the morning turned to after lunch, but then it was non-stop going to different sites with springs, wells, and manmade canals for irrigation purposes.

A team from Kenya wanted to get some info before a work shop. It was highly interesting to follow the discussions - sometimes an intense back and forth, most times followed by laughter and shaking hands. The reason I could follow it was that they spoke in English, only sometimes falling into Swahili. But I asked someone later if there are different dialects and he said that in some parts of Kenya they speak English anyway, and no Swahili.

We went to five or six different sites. Then first two were rice fields, with three harvests a year. Throngs of guys were riding on old bicycles that were stacked with fire wood on the back rack. Semi-legal, they went to Moshi to sell it.

Later we went into a rather remote place. "Side store Allah akbar" was one of the interesting writings on one of the buildings... That was an area where conflict is arising b/c the forest is now protected and no new people are allowed in to build rice fields, but the ones that already were in (and cleared the woods) are safe for now...

Then we went onn to Marangua, the entrance to the Kili National Park. his is the main route that most people who go to the summit choose. It's at 1970m and features the "last barber" before the end of the civilization...

I hadn't realized what was at stake, so didn't bring my camera. Big bummer. It was dark when we were heading home and that the skin colour of the Africans didn't particular help visibility on their no-light bicycles didn't really matter, as generally the car drivers honk and peds and bikes are supposed to get out of the way.

Coming home we had ugali, the national dish made out nof corn, served with just about anything (tonight was fish and boga - vegetables).

Going through Moshi yesterday, a lot of the conversations are the same:
"Hello Mister, how are you?"
"Good, how are you?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Very fine. Where are you from?"
"Germany."
"Ah, Alles klar (Everything's alright)?"

They all seem to have the same German teacher. After this introduction it is time to do business and they offer Safaris, Kili tours or tell me where their craft store is. I usually tell them that I am off to some work meeting and don't have time, which is when they lose interest. They prefer the real tourist....

Just those experiences in Moshi and then today's afternoon where already worth the trip.

There are also those new noises that I could experience. A bird that I never heard before outside my window. Other noises were more familiar, such as the roosters. They sound just like in Gent, except that here they set them to the wrong time. Two nights in a row I woke up, but not only were they set to a time where nobody gets up. They were also set on random snooze. So after a break of maybe 3,5 or 10 minutes, it was kikeriki again from the "jogoo". The other unusual, yet strangely familiar sound is from the dog that barks, but then starts trying to imitate a wolf... Maybe I'll try to record it one of those days and display it here....

There still hasn't been any rain and it's pretty warm. But it's nothing like Roseville. More humid, but the temps are maybe in the low 30's (high 80's). Survivable for a summer under the African sun.

Well, time for bed now and I won't be able to send it until tomorrow.

Thursday 8 November 2007

1st day in office

Today I was introduced to everbody in the Kili Industry Develkopment Program (KIDP) office. Everybody is very nice. I may be on a field trip tomorrow but after that I should have better connection than this slow internet cafe.

I'll be looking for a bicycle now, as the office is kinda far. It has to be sturdy, as some of the roads are bad and force most cars/trucks to go walkign speed...I'll probably pass them once I have my mountain bike.

Maybe I can start soemthing like "BikingMoshi"...

Wednesday 7 November 2007

Into Africa

Well, I am here! Already had a glimpse of Kilimanjaro - very impressive, but the peak was not visible for loong as clouds keep hovering around it. One of my contacts here arranged for me to be picked up at the air port and even though that wasn't the cheapest options it sure was the most convenient. We drove for like half an hour sraight to the office (not the one where I am going to be working out of, though)

I can stay with Dora (one of the contact persons), her sister, two kids (I think there were two) and a maid. After using the taxi once I memorized the way and then walked the way to the office after a little nap (I did sleep some in the plane, but probably not more than 4 hours). The walk was so short that I actually went way past the office... It should take around ten minutes. Dora's sister was very worried, which was funny as everybody walks here. Whole processions of people come by.

When we left the airport, there were wide open fields and you see the kids walk to school everywhere. The buses seem always crowded and it looks like my best option is to buy a bicycle.

Monday 5 November 2007

Out of Europe

Ha, I bet you didn't think I'd ever take off. But living in Gent, some of the neighbouring streets always reminded me of my ultimate goal: The Zebrastraat, Tijgerstraat, Olifantstraat or the Leeuw (Lion) straat were in my mind a lot. With the final vaccination out of the way I will be heading to Tanzania on November 6. Some more final preparations need to be done, but mostly I am enjoying the time off after a busy summer. Running through the Black Forest is my favourite activity right now. The leaves are changing colours and with the weather being very nice it makes for nice jogging.

I opted for a night flight, so I'll get to my destination early in the morning. It does look like my accommodation is somewhat taken care of, but I'll find out more when I get to Moshi.

When I am at my parents' place I tend to re-read some of my old books. This time it was "Earth in Balance" which I read in 1992 when it first came out. I am only 1/3 into it and won't re-finish it, but it reminded me why the book influenced me a lot on how I live my life. Good read.

At any rate, I am excited to get going and I hope I can update the blog frequently. Since COMPACT moved offices I am now in the bigger town of Moshi, which should make internet access easier. As ling as there is electricity, which I understand is not the case 24/7. I am sure I'll encounter more things we take for granted that others have to fight for.

Well, laters then. My flight leaves at 20:45 tomorrow, Tuesday Nov 6. I will get to the airport via train. Phew, thank goodness the strike of the train engineers is on hold for now.