I was told today that there is a bus from my work place, KIDT (which I erroneously called KIDP before - it stands for Kilimanjaro Industry Development Trust), but as usual the time table is not quite clear. What about the fare, though? It costs time, was the answer. So people working at the KIDT can get a ride for free, but unlike the frequent dala-dalas (the minivan buses) it only comes a few times a day. So if you miss it you are out of luck. "You have to pay time and attention to get to the bus stop early." I may try that one next time.
Today I was gonna get a ride, which I did - but it also meant I didn't get to the office until 11am...However, the setup is really good. I have a desk, "my" ethernet cable and a power outlet. Speaking of power outlet - the power was let out again yesterday... The second outage since I arrived. I had a feeling that it was going to happen - just like last time the wind picked up and minutes later it was really dark...
Apparently it gets windier towards Christmas, so I assume that is why people started putting candles on the tree. I had the chance to end my work day at 1pm today as Vicky was offering a ride back into town. But I decided to stay here and do some more reading on biogas facilities, which is likely to be my new subject, or at least part of the thesis with a revised focus on the hindrances to establish more sustainable practices.
Yesterday I left early because I got a ride at 3pm, so I hung out in Moshi for the afternoon and had a drink with Rasta John. I think pretty soon all the people who constantly are trying to sell me stuff or safaris will know me and realize I am staying for longer and I will not do a safari or buy their pictures and other things. The town is very small after all and Dora thinks she knows one of Rasta John's family members, if we are talking about the same shop.
Tuesday, 13 November 2007
Monday, 12 November 2007
Darkness on the edge of town
I experienced my first power outage last weekend. Fun, fun, fun. We sat around the dinner table (but were already done eating), when all of a sudden it got pitch black dark. The kids started to cry, of course. I wanted to get up to get my laptop for some light, but heard "Wait, wait" from somewhere (how did they see me???). With the help of a cell phone they had quickly found a lantern and a candle. The latter turned out to be for me as I was heading to bed. I got ready and once I was in bed, the lights came back on...
Speaking of cell phones, it has been very hard to try to convince Dora to not give me her second cell phone. I just don't even want to start with those thingies. She was also puzzled to see me without a watch. And there I thought I would perfectly blend in with the African lifestyle.... At any rate, I have a laptop that tells me constantly what time it is. I do admit it was fun to leave for work this morning and not having to care how long it took (Somewhere between 45-60 minutes).
I am now making progress on my thesis.
Speaking of cell phones, it has been very hard to try to convince Dora to not give me her second cell phone. I just don't even want to start with those thingies. She was also puzzled to see me without a watch. And there I thought I would perfectly blend in with the African lifestyle.... At any rate, I have a laptop that tells me constantly what time it is. I do admit it was fun to leave for work this morning and not having to care how long it took (Somewhere between 45-60 minutes).
I am now making progress on my thesis.
Blowing in the wind
How many people do you fit into a 14-seat minibus? The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind. But what I do know is that about two dozen seems the normal rate. Dora and I took the bus Sunday to get some nice waterfalls near Marangu (the entrance to the Kili National Park). When we hopped on the van was 'empty' - meaning there were no more people than seats...
Then people started to pile in and I moved further and further back until I was in the last row, second most spot to the right (with the door on the left - driving is on the left). So then the guy next to me (in the spot farthest from the door) wanted to get out. In a blink of an eye he had jumped out the window. Aha. I opted for the old folks version where several people had to get out so I could exit. This was particularly difficult with my not quite so small backpack. But patience is everything here and people tend to accept things.
I will say that I preferred the Guatemalan buses (those were old American school buses rather than minivans), but both systems are fascinating with the guy who collects the money hanging out the window or the door and trying to get more passengers as they drive along. The rates are written inside the bus (you don't pay right away - somewhat when the money collector feels like it, but certainly before you get off...), but the locals tend to haggle and get cheaper fares sometimes.
I am still interested in getting a bicycle instead.
Then people started to pile in and I moved further and further back until I was in the last row, second most spot to the right (with the door on the left - driving is on the left). So then the guy next to me (in the spot farthest from the door) wanted to get out. In a blink of an eye he had jumped out the window. Aha. I opted for the old folks version where several people had to get out so I could exit. This was particularly difficult with my not quite so small backpack. But patience is everything here and people tend to accept things.
I will say that I preferred the Guatemalan buses (those were old American school buses rather than minivans), but both systems are fascinating with the guy who collects the money hanging out the window or the door and trying to get more passengers as they drive along. The rates are written inside the bus (you don't pay right away - somewhat when the money collector feels like it, but certainly before you get off...), but the locals tend to haggle and get cheaper fares sometimes.
I am still interested in getting a bicycle instead.
Rasta John
"How are you? Good seeing you again!" This was a standard phrase from people who I hadn't seen before. If not the first it was at least the second guy who approached me on the street with those words, trying to sell me a safari trip (again?). But this time it was different. I recognized the guy and we started chatting. He pointed out his craft store (again) and this time I agreed to venture in, but telling him right away I wouldn't buy anything.
At the beginning of a three-month trip there is still plenty of time to figure where to get things. So we walk over there and they are actually nice things there. But I only got some post cards. He introduced himself as John. I then asked about buying a used bicycle (I looked at new ones - they are around 100 bucks, but too small).
He agreed to walk me around. When we left his store a guy from the store on the opposite site came running out a mzungu always smells like business, I suppose. But it was interesting - it turned out to be the store that organizes the Kili-Man (open to women, too, btw). It's somewhat like the IronMan (open to women, too, btw). Climbing Kili, riding around it with a bicycle and then doing a marathon, although of course this is not a one-day event (http://kilimanjaro-man.com/). I am so close, yet so far away from it. It will happen again in February 2008, just after my return to Europe. Turns out one of the persons involved with it is a German. She will be back Tuesday and I may stop by.
So John and I walked around and checked out several places. Eventually we found one nice one, but it was twice the price of a new one (200 dollars) even though definitely better quality than the store ones. I will talk to the Kili-GerMan (who is a woman, btw) and see if she knows of any good cheap bikes. But eventually I will buy one. I walked to the office today (something like 45min to an hour) - not something I want to do everyday, even though it was interesting to (somewhat) blend in with the other folks on their way to school, work or just walking errands.
Anyway, eventually John and I parted ways. I told him I'll think about the bicycle some more and asked for his phone number. He tore out a page of his calendar, then borrowed a pen from someone (pens seem to be always rare here) and wrote: Rasta John - Tel: ....
We shook hands, then hit our fists against each others - very popular especially among the younger crowd. He then clutched his chest. Made me feel very special.
At the beginning of a three-month trip there is still plenty of time to figure where to get things. So we walk over there and they are actually nice things there. But I only got some post cards. He introduced himself as John. I then asked about buying a used bicycle (I looked at new ones - they are around 100 bucks, but too small).
He agreed to walk me around. When we left his store a guy from the store on the opposite site came running out a mzungu always smells like business, I suppose. But it was interesting - it turned out to be the store that organizes the Kili-Man (open to women, too, btw). It's somewhat like the IronMan (open to women, too, btw). Climbing Kili, riding around it with a bicycle and then doing a marathon, although of course this is not a one-day event (http://kilimanjaro-man.com/). I am so close, yet so far away from it. It will happen again in February 2008, just after my return to Europe. Turns out one of the persons involved with it is a German. She will be back Tuesday and I may stop by.
So John and I walked around and checked out several places. Eventually we found one nice one, but it was twice the price of a new one (200 dollars) even though definitely better quality than the store ones. I will talk to the Kili-GerMan (who is a woman, btw) and see if she knows of any good cheap bikes. But eventually I will buy one. I walked to the office today (something like 45min to an hour) - not something I want to do everyday, even though it was interesting to (somewhat) blend in with the other folks on their way to school, work or just walking errands.
Anyway, eventually John and I parted ways. I told him I'll think about the bicycle some more and asked for his phone number. He tore out a page of his calendar, then borrowed a pen from someone (pens seem to be always rare here) and wrote: Rasta John - Tel: ....
We shook hands, then hit our fists against each others - very popular especially among the younger crowd. He then clutched his chest. Made me feel very special.
Saturday, 10 November 2007
You know it's hot when...
the Africans gather in the shade and the (dark skinned) Kenyan asks the (lighter skinned) Tanzanian how she can stand it without a hat...
But let's start at the beginning. All I knew about Friday was that the COMPACT people were going to pick me up in the morning and that there may be a field trip. But my assumption was we would go to the office first, where I could check my email. Well, the morning turned to after lunch, but then it was non-stop going to different sites with springs, wells, and manmade canals for irrigation purposes.
A team from Kenya wanted to get some info before a work shop. It was highly interesting to follow the discussions - sometimes an intense back and forth, most times followed by laughter and shaking hands. The reason I could follow it was that they spoke in English, only sometimes falling into Swahili. But I asked someone later if there are different dialects and he said that in some parts of Kenya they speak English anyway, and no Swahili.
We went to five or six different sites. Then first two were rice fields, with three harvests a year. Throngs of guys were riding on old bicycles that were stacked with fire wood on the back rack. Semi-legal, they went to Moshi to sell it.
Later we went into a rather remote place. "Side store Allah akbar" was one of the interesting writings on one of the buildings... That was an area where conflict is arising b/c the forest is now protected and no new people are allowed in to build rice fields, but the ones that already were in (and cleared the woods) are safe for now...
Then we went onn to Marangua, the entrance to the Kili National Park. his is the main route that most people who go to the summit choose. It's at 1970m and features the "last barber" before the end of the civilization...
I hadn't realized what was at stake, so didn't bring my camera. Big bummer. It was dark when we were heading home and that the skin colour of the Africans didn't particular help visibility on their no-light bicycles didn't really matter, as generally the car drivers honk and peds and bikes are supposed to get out of the way.
Coming home we had ugali, the national dish made out nof corn, served with just about anything (tonight was fish and boga - vegetables).
Going through Moshi yesterday, a lot of the conversations are the same:
"Hello Mister, how are you?"
"Good, how are you?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Very fine. Where are you from?"
"Germany."
"Ah, Alles klar (Everything's alright)?"
They all seem to have the same German teacher. After this introduction it is time to do business and they offer Safaris, Kili tours or tell me where their craft store is. I usually tell them that I am off to some work meeting and don't have time, which is when they lose interest. They prefer the real tourist....
Just those experiences in Moshi and then today's afternoon where already worth the trip.
There are also those new noises that I could experience. A bird that I never heard before outside my window. Other noises were more familiar, such as the roosters. They sound just like in Gent, except that here they set them to the wrong time. Two nights in a row I woke up, but not only were they set to a time where nobody gets up. They were also set on random snooze. So after a break of maybe 3,5 or 10 minutes, it was kikeriki again from the "jogoo". The other unusual, yet strangely familiar sound is from the dog that barks, but then starts trying to imitate a wolf... Maybe I'll try to record it one of those days and display it here....
There still hasn't been any rain and it's pretty warm. But it's nothing like Roseville. More humid, but the temps are maybe in the low 30's (high 80's). Survivable for a summer under the African sun.
Well, time for bed now and I won't be able to send it until tomorrow.
But let's start at the beginning. All I knew about Friday was that the COMPACT people were going to pick me up in the morning and that there may be a field trip. But my assumption was we would go to the office first, where I could check my email. Well, the morning turned to after lunch, but then it was non-stop going to different sites with springs, wells, and manmade canals for irrigation purposes.
A team from Kenya wanted to get some info before a work shop. It was highly interesting to follow the discussions - sometimes an intense back and forth, most times followed by laughter and shaking hands. The reason I could follow it was that they spoke in English, only sometimes falling into Swahili. But I asked someone later if there are different dialects and he said that in some parts of Kenya they speak English anyway, and no Swahili.
We went to five or six different sites. Then first two were rice fields, with three harvests a year. Throngs of guys were riding on old bicycles that were stacked with fire wood on the back rack. Semi-legal, they went to Moshi to sell it.
Later we went into a rather remote place. "Side store Allah akbar" was one of the interesting writings on one of the buildings... That was an area where conflict is arising b/c the forest is now protected and no new people are allowed in to build rice fields, but the ones that already were in (and cleared the woods) are safe for now...
Then we went onn to Marangua, the entrance to the Kili National Park. his is the main route that most people who go to the summit choose. It's at 1970m and features the "last barber" before the end of the civilization...
I hadn't realized what was at stake, so didn't bring my camera. Big bummer. It was dark when we were heading home and that the skin colour of the Africans didn't particular help visibility on their no-light bicycles didn't really matter, as generally the car drivers honk and peds and bikes are supposed to get out of the way.
Coming home we had ugali, the national dish made out nof corn, served with just about anything (tonight was fish and boga - vegetables).
Going through Moshi yesterday, a lot of the conversations are the same:
"Hello Mister, how are you?"
"Good, how are you?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Very fine. Where are you from?"
"Germany."
"Ah, Alles klar (Everything's alright)?"
They all seem to have the same German teacher. After this introduction it is time to do business and they offer Safaris, Kili tours or tell me where their craft store is. I usually tell them that I am off to some work meeting and don't have time, which is when they lose interest. They prefer the real tourist....
Just those experiences in Moshi and then today's afternoon where already worth the trip.
There are also those new noises that I could experience. A bird that I never heard before outside my window. Other noises were more familiar, such as the roosters. They sound just like in Gent, except that here they set them to the wrong time. Two nights in a row I woke up, but not only were they set to a time where nobody gets up. They were also set on random snooze. So after a break of maybe 3,5 or 10 minutes, it was kikeriki again from the "jogoo". The other unusual, yet strangely familiar sound is from the dog that barks, but then starts trying to imitate a wolf... Maybe I'll try to record it one of those days and display it here....
There still hasn't been any rain and it's pretty warm. But it's nothing like Roseville. More humid, but the temps are maybe in the low 30's (high 80's). Survivable for a summer under the African sun.
Well, time for bed now and I won't be able to send it until tomorrow.
Thursday, 8 November 2007
1st day in office
Today I was introduced to everbody in the Kili Industry Develkopment Program (KIDP) office. Everybody is very nice. I may be on a field trip tomorrow but after that I should have better connection than this slow internet cafe.
I'll be looking for a bicycle now, as the office is kinda far. It has to be sturdy, as some of the roads are bad and force most cars/trucks to go walkign speed...I'll probably pass them once I have my mountain bike.
Maybe I can start soemthing like "BikingMoshi"...
I'll be looking for a bicycle now, as the office is kinda far. It has to be sturdy, as some of the roads are bad and force most cars/trucks to go walkign speed...I'll probably pass them once I have my mountain bike.
Maybe I can start soemthing like "BikingMoshi"...
Wednesday, 7 November 2007
Into Africa
Well, I am here! Already had a glimpse of Kilimanjaro - very impressive, but the peak was not visible for loong as clouds keep hovering around it. One of my contacts here arranged for me to be picked up at the air port and even though that wasn't the cheapest options it sure was the most convenient. We drove for like half an hour sraight to the office (not the one where I am going to be working out of, though)
I can stay with Dora (one of the contact persons), her sister, two kids (I think there were two) and a maid. After using the taxi once I memorized the way and then walked the way to the office after a little nap (I did sleep some in the plane, but probably not more than 4 hours). The walk was so short that I actually went way past the office... It should take around ten minutes. Dora's sister was very worried, which was funny as everybody walks here. Whole processions of people come by.
When we left the airport, there were wide open fields and you see the kids walk to school everywhere. The buses seem always crowded and it looks like my best option is to buy a bicycle.
I can stay with Dora (one of the contact persons), her sister, two kids (I think there were two) and a maid. After using the taxi once I memorized the way and then walked the way to the office after a little nap (I did sleep some in the plane, but probably not more than 4 hours). The walk was so short that I actually went way past the office... It should take around ten minutes. Dora's sister was very worried, which was funny as everybody walks here. Whole processions of people come by.
When we left the airport, there were wide open fields and you see the kids walk to school everywhere. The buses seem always crowded and it looks like my best option is to buy a bicycle.
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