Monday, 12 November 2007

Rasta John

"How are you? Good seeing you again!" This was a standard phrase from people who I hadn't seen before. If not the first it was at least the second guy who approached me on the street with those words, trying to sell me a safari trip (again?). But this time it was different. I recognized the guy and we started chatting. He pointed out his craft store (again) and this time I agreed to venture in, but telling him right away I wouldn't buy anything.

At the beginning of a three-month trip there is still plenty of time to figure where to get things. So we walk over there and they are actually nice things there. But I only got some post cards. He introduced himself as John. I then asked about buying a used bicycle (I looked at new ones - they are around 100 bucks, but too small).

He agreed to walk me around. When we left his store a guy from the store on the opposite site came running out a mzungu always smells like business, I suppose. But it was interesting - it turned out to be the store that organizes the Kili-Man (open to women, too, btw). It's somewhat like the IronMan (open to women, too, btw). Climbing Kili, riding around it with a bicycle and then doing a marathon, although of course this is not a one-day event (http://kilimanjaro-man.com/). I am so close, yet so far away from it. It will happen again in February 2008, just after my return to Europe. Turns out one of the persons involved with it is a German. She will be back Tuesday and I may stop by.

So John and I walked around and checked out several places. Eventually we found one nice one, but it was twice the price of a new one (200 dollars) even though definitely better quality than the store ones. I will talk to the Kili-GerMan (who is a woman, btw) and see if she knows of any good cheap bikes. But eventually I will buy one. I walked to the office today (something like 45min to an hour) - not something I want to do everyday, even though it was interesting to (somewhat) blend in with the other folks on their way to school, work or just walking errands.

Anyway, eventually John and I parted ways. I told him I'll think about the bicycle some more and asked for his phone number. He tore out a page of his calendar, then borrowed a pen from someone (pens seem to be always rare here) and wrote: Rasta John - Tel: ....

We shook hands, then hit our fists against each others - very popular especially among the younger crowd. He then clutched his chest. Made me feel very special.

Saturday, 10 November 2007

You know it's hot when...

the Africans gather in the shade and the (dark skinned) Kenyan asks the (lighter skinned) Tanzanian how she can stand it without a hat...
But let's start at the beginning. All I knew about Friday was that the COMPACT people were going to pick me up in the morning and that there may be a field trip. But my assumption was we would go to the office first, where I could check my email. Well, the morning turned to after lunch, but then it was non-stop going to different sites with springs, wells, and manmade canals for irrigation purposes.

A team from Kenya wanted to get some info before a work shop. It was highly interesting to follow the discussions - sometimes an intense back and forth, most times followed by laughter and shaking hands. The reason I could follow it was that they spoke in English, only sometimes falling into Swahili. But I asked someone later if there are different dialects and he said that in some parts of Kenya they speak English anyway, and no Swahili.

We went to five or six different sites. Then first two were rice fields, with three harvests a year. Throngs of guys were riding on old bicycles that were stacked with fire wood on the back rack. Semi-legal, they went to Moshi to sell it.

Later we went into a rather remote place. "Side store Allah akbar" was one of the interesting writings on one of the buildings... That was an area where conflict is arising b/c the forest is now protected and no new people are allowed in to build rice fields, but the ones that already were in (and cleared the woods) are safe for now...

Then we went onn to Marangua, the entrance to the Kili National Park. his is the main route that most people who go to the summit choose. It's at 1970m and features the "last barber" before the end of the civilization...

I hadn't realized what was at stake, so didn't bring my camera. Big bummer. It was dark when we were heading home and that the skin colour of the Africans didn't particular help visibility on their no-light bicycles didn't really matter, as generally the car drivers honk and peds and bikes are supposed to get out of the way.

Coming home we had ugali, the national dish made out nof corn, served with just about anything (tonight was fish and boga - vegetables).

Going through Moshi yesterday, a lot of the conversations are the same:
"Hello Mister, how are you?"
"Good, how are you?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Good, how is your day going?"
"Very fine. Where are you from?"
"Germany."
"Ah, Alles klar (Everything's alright)?"

They all seem to have the same German teacher. After this introduction it is time to do business and they offer Safaris, Kili tours or tell me where their craft store is. I usually tell them that I am off to some work meeting and don't have time, which is when they lose interest. They prefer the real tourist....

Just those experiences in Moshi and then today's afternoon where already worth the trip.

There are also those new noises that I could experience. A bird that I never heard before outside my window. Other noises were more familiar, such as the roosters. They sound just like in Gent, except that here they set them to the wrong time. Two nights in a row I woke up, but not only were they set to a time where nobody gets up. They were also set on random snooze. So after a break of maybe 3,5 or 10 minutes, it was kikeriki again from the "jogoo". The other unusual, yet strangely familiar sound is from the dog that barks, but then starts trying to imitate a wolf... Maybe I'll try to record it one of those days and display it here....

There still hasn't been any rain and it's pretty warm. But it's nothing like Roseville. More humid, but the temps are maybe in the low 30's (high 80's). Survivable for a summer under the African sun.

Well, time for bed now and I won't be able to send it until tomorrow.

Thursday, 8 November 2007

1st day in office

Today I was introduced to everbody in the Kili Industry Develkopment Program (KIDP) office. Everybody is very nice. I may be on a field trip tomorrow but after that I should have better connection than this slow internet cafe.

I'll be looking for a bicycle now, as the office is kinda far. It has to be sturdy, as some of the roads are bad and force most cars/trucks to go walkign speed...I'll probably pass them once I have my mountain bike.

Maybe I can start soemthing like "BikingMoshi"...

Wednesday, 7 November 2007

Into Africa

Well, I am here! Already had a glimpse of Kilimanjaro - very impressive, but the peak was not visible for loong as clouds keep hovering around it. One of my contacts here arranged for me to be picked up at the air port and even though that wasn't the cheapest options it sure was the most convenient. We drove for like half an hour sraight to the office (not the one where I am going to be working out of, though)

I can stay with Dora (one of the contact persons), her sister, two kids (I think there were two) and a maid. After using the taxi once I memorized the way and then walked the way to the office after a little nap (I did sleep some in the plane, but probably not more than 4 hours). The walk was so short that I actually went way past the office... It should take around ten minutes. Dora's sister was very worried, which was funny as everybody walks here. Whole processions of people come by.

When we left the airport, there were wide open fields and you see the kids walk to school everywhere. The buses seem always crowded and it looks like my best option is to buy a bicycle.

Monday, 5 November 2007

Out of Europe

Ha, I bet you didn't think I'd ever take off. But living in Gent, some of the neighbouring streets always reminded me of my ultimate goal: The Zebrastraat, Tijgerstraat, Olifantstraat or the Leeuw (Lion) straat were in my mind a lot. With the final vaccination out of the way I will be heading to Tanzania on November 6. Some more final preparations need to be done, but mostly I am enjoying the time off after a busy summer. Running through the Black Forest is my favourite activity right now. The leaves are changing colours and with the weather being very nice it makes for nice jogging.

I opted for a night flight, so I'll get to my destination early in the morning. It does look like my accommodation is somewhat taken care of, but I'll find out more when I get to Moshi.

When I am at my parents' place I tend to re-read some of my old books. This time it was "Earth in Balance" which I read in 1992 when it first came out. I am only 1/3 into it and won't re-finish it, but it reminded me why the book influenced me a lot on how I live my life. Good read.

At any rate, I am excited to get going and I hope I can update the blog frequently. Since COMPACT moved offices I am now in the bigger town of Moshi, which should make internet access easier. As ling as there is electricity, which I understand is not the case 24/7. I am sure I'll encounter more things we take for granted that others have to fight for.

Well, laters then. My flight leaves at 20:45 tomorrow, Tuesday Nov 6. I will get to the airport via train. Phew, thank goodness the strike of the train engineers is on hold for now.

Saturday, 21 July 2007

Wednesday, 11 July 2007

what is a blog?

Merriam Webster: a Web site that contains an online personal journal with reflections, comments, and often hyperlinks provided by the writer

Thank goodness it doesn't say anything about the frequency of updates necessary to make it a blog.

But since I am already typing stories all day I'd have to type about typing stories and that just doesn't seem right.

So I'll be not updating this anymore until Africa trip, although I will try to upload some of the Gent pix sometime in the next week or two. The Tour takes every bit of energy out of the riders, but it doesn't fare much better on us "journalists" (I'll have to put this into quotes as merely thinking in these terms seems rather silly for me -I think right now I see myself as not really employed. Just having fun.)

Anyway, here is what I have been doing last week, to get together a story on the Tour coming to my new hometown:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/road/2007/tour07/?id=/features/2007/tour_gent_07